eGarden © 2005 Ed Mues

From The Garden of Ed. Submitted for publication in The Towne Crier on November 2, 2005

A Mid-Autumn Garden Calendar.

It is a sure thing that the water deficit we've suffered earlier in the year has been made up. What remains for us to do is button up some of the business end of our home and garden responsibilities before the onset of winter. It's like the wolf at the door. Very near.

The grass generally grows until around Thanksgiving. When you think you're going to make the last cut of the season, make it shorter than usual. Around 1-1/2". If your using a mulching mower, leave the clippings. If not, remove then. This short final cut will discourage any spring lawn fungus diseases.

Lime, if needed, can be added now. It takes 4 to 6 months to work its way into the earth. Sampling soil from a depth of 4 to 6 inches, and having a pH test, will let you know your specific needs for your specific crop.

Begin to carry out your deer protection program for vulnerable species. Have six foot or taller stakes at hand, fence, netting, or burlap at the ready, and get everything in place within the next few weeks. Install and feel fairly secure.

If you plan to put in a live Christmas tree after the holidays, dig your hole now. Fill it with leaves, straw or pine needles until ready to plant. Store the removed soil in a container in a cool location above freezing.

Bare-root plants, trees and shrubs can still be put into the ground as long as the ground can be worked and the plants are dormant and temps are cool. Stake newly put in plants if there is a likelihood that they will be whipped by the wind. Remember to provide regular deep waterings in the absence of rainfall until the ground is frozen.

If you planted fall blooming mums last month or before then, don't cut them back until spring.

Clean your garden tools before putting them away. Paint thinner removes sap and sticky pitch from them, and a wire brush will clean them to metal and then follow with a thin coat of oil. Ready snow removal equipment by lubricating and coating with silicone spray or floor wax. They're good to go for the next snow event.

If you did not fertilize your lawn by Labor Day, now is the last, best opportunity. Think Memorial Day, Labor Day or Thanksgiving Day. The three, only, best times. Other times will cause damage and problems.

Clean up beneath all landscape trees close to your home. This includes leaves, branches and fruit. You'll be reducing the incidence of insect and disease infestation next year.

If you have nuts to harvest, finish up and dry them. Then shell them and freeze them for use throughout the coming months.

Rake fallen leaves from your lawn areas, or run over them with the lawn mower to chop them up so they don't smother areas with large mats of leaves.

Evergreens that might suffer splits and cracks from heavy snow or ice loads can be tied fairly snugly or wrapped in burlap to protect them from damage.

Mulch treasured perennials, trees and shrubs after the ground is frozen. A two inch thick layer is just right. Avoid mulching right up to the trunk or stem. Leave a two or three inch gap. Don't forget your strawberries.

Don't forget to dig up and remove for winter storage any tender bulbs, corms or tubers.

If you're inclined, put in some winter rye in the garden area. Do it soon to benefit your soil, prevent erosion, improve beneficial microbial life and add green manure in the spring.

Newly planted trees, fruit trees and any other thin barked trees should have a protective cover for their lower trunks. It can be hardware cloth or plastic guards. This will keep voles from eating and perhaps girdling the bark and inflicting serious to mortal injury. If in very sunny areas, paint lower portions with a white latex paint to reflect winter sunlight and prevent major temperature swings which could lead to bark cracking and splitting.

To protect your roses from the ravages of winter, cut back any leggy growth that might whip around in the wind and be damaged, or cause damage to the main stem. Then, mound up soil 10 to 12 inches over the base of the plants once the ground is frozen. They should be fine until new growth shows itself in the spring.

Don't forget to feed and turn the compost heap until it's frozen. Black plastic keeps it workable longer.

Broadleaf evergreens in strong winter sun, high winds, or other extreme weather, if not protected by burlap or other screens, might be protected with anti-dessicant sprays that can be applied this month. Reapply if there is a thaw in January or February.

It's not too late to put in spring flowering bulbs. As long as the soil can be worked, go to it. There are lots of bargains out there this month. Take advantage of the sales. You won't regret it.

If you haven't yet planned a deicing program for around your home, planting gardens, and other "sacred" areas, seriously consider sand, cat litter, sawdust, urea fertilizer, or wood ash in areas you deem plant sensitive. A handy boot brush or scrub mat will make the whole process friendly to guests, as would a welcoming cup of hot coffee or tea and some one size fits most slippers.

If the nature lover in you is as anxious as I am, once the threat of bears is past, fill and keep full your birds feeders, and place out some suet, or the new block substitutes (quite acceptable). Once they become dependent on your food supply, don't stop until early spring, when the bears wake up and the birdies have sufficient food elsewhere. What joys await, both of color, life, and song.

It is never too late to remove weeds from the gardens you cherish. You know they are annual (that produce seeds every year and die), and perennial (that live on and on), and biennial (that will return next year, produce seeds and then die).

Have houseplants indoors? Remember to rotate them a quarter of a turn every week so they develop even growth over their indoor stay. Be sure not to over water them, and save the plant food for spring. The winter days are short and growth can be slow.

If you have prepared beds for seeding hardy flowers, now is an excellent time to sow them. Cover with some screening or a light mulch of pine needles so the birds don't get them before the snow has a chance to cover them and do its magic.

Finally, if you're one of those people who thrive on midwinter thrills from blossoms and fragrance, plant bulbs now for indoor winter bloom. Paperwhite narcissus are the standard favorite because they require no pre-chilling. But there are others like colchicum, crocus, anemone, iris reticulata, muscari, hyacinths. Some will need pre-chilling, but what a winter flower display you can have. A spare fridge really helps. Enjoy!

From The Garden of Ed. Submitted for publication in The Towne Crier on November 2, 2005

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