eGarden © 2008 Ed Mues

January 16, 2008

"Let’s Kick It Up a Notch"

That imperative is the usual for a popular Food TV host. It’s commonly followed by “Bam!” to accompany the handful of signature spices he throws into the dish he’s preparing.

For centuries the ancients prized spices so highly that they risked their lives, fought wars, and traveled long distances, even finding new worlds, quite by accident in some cases. The rewards sought were the mysterious and fascinating flavors unique to the natural world found only in very specific locales. Unlike any others, these tastes, once experienced, were considered necessary for survival.

In 2800 BC, we have documentation that people in great numbers traveled to the Isle of Rhodes for two Grecian delicacies -- gingerbread and nougats -- tastes deemed necessary. A Chinese herbal dated 2700 BC speaks of cinnamon, another powerful spice.

Nomadic tribes in the Arabian Desert controlled the spice trade as middlemen for more than three thousand years. Their huge profits came from sales of spices and accompanying taxes. They kept their sources secret, and subsequent generations continued to reap the rewards, so vast that their territory became known as Araby Blest.

Spice trading has a great history. Joseph was sold to a spice trader from Gilead for 20 pieces of silver. The Queen of Sheba presented precious stones and spices to King Solomon. Nations fought wars over the occupation and control of spice territories. Political power shifted according to their availability.

As communications around the world improved, the demand for spices escalated to the point where they were soon worth their weight in gold. Europe became fixated on wresting control of the spice trade away from the Arab world. Key to this accomplishment was finding a direct route to the Spice Islands.

On May 20th, 1498 Vasco da Gama fulfilled the dream of much of Europe. He landed at Calicut, India, the home of the much coveted spice treasures. He had discovered the trade route from Europe that would lead to wars between ambitious and greedy nations. Near the close of the 16th century, the Dutch wrested away control from the Spanish and Portuguese, but after another fifty years of war, the English finally broke the Dutch monopoly and the East India Company of Gentlemen Adventurers in 1600 took possession of the vast and wealthy empire. The ships from their first voyage returned with 210,000 pounds of the finest Sumatra pepper, the most valuable of all spices at the time. In terms of quantity, pepper is still the world leader as the most valuable.

Of course such explorations also led to the discovery of the New World and the exploration and colonization of the tropics. In spite of all the glamour and romance associated with the Orient and India, many of today’s leading spices also come from tropical America (vanilla, chili pepper, allspice, and sarsaparilla), Africa (myrrh, frankincense, kola nut, grains of paradise, and buchu), Europe (saffron, myrtle, labdanum), eastern North America (sassafras), and the West Indies (cumin, allspice, paprika, nutmeg, cayenne).

We now know from studying history, spices went from the East Indies by ship to Yemen and then on long trips by camel to Macoraba, AKA Mecca, the birthplace of Muhammad. Here on fresh camels with new owners, the bounty traveled to the ports of Tyre and Sidon, two of Phoenicia’s most important cities, where the valuable product was loaded on ships and carried to the leading ports of the Mediterranean. In Italy, Genoa and Venice became central hubs for the trade of spices from Southeast Asia. On these extensive expeditions, at each transfer of the product, its cost and value increased exponentially.

Commerce was vigorous. The early Christian era and some of the excesses of the wealthy dwarfed this trade. The Old and New Testaments are replete with references to spices. Can you imagine Nero extravagantly investing the equivalent of a year’s supply of cinnamon when he lay to rest his second wife, Poppaea Sabina?

Some reports of the final stages of the siege of Rome state that Alaric, King of the Goths, demanded money, grain, the top military office, and 3000 pounds of pepper among other things. This was in 409, and the money and grain were granted, but his other demands were refused. The following year Alaric and his men sacked Rome for three days and, in all likelihood, took all he wanted in this historic victory.

The zest and pungency of spices were used to enhance foods and wine, mask the odor of over ripe meat and fish, scent perfumes and lotions, make incense and anointing oils for sacrificial rites, embalming and funerals. Doctors used them to make medicines, and lovers to make potions.

There is a long-standing controversy about which plants are herbs and which are spices. The American Spice Trade Assn. today maintains spices are “any dried plant product used primarily for seasoning purposes.” This all inclusive definition rivals opinions of several scholars who believe spices are flavorings of mostly tropical origins that may come from seeds, fruits, roots, bark, flowers. This camp postulates it depends on what part of the plant it comes from, where the plant is found growing, and whether or not it is from a plant with a woody stem.

Spices are from bark (cinnamon, sassafras), root (garlic, ginger), flower buds (clove), flowers (saffron), seeds (mustard, sesame), berry (pepper) or fruit (paprika, allspice).

Herbs have always been associated with plants growing in temperate regions. They are the green, leafy, aromatic parts like mint, rosemary, tarragon, etc. Many herbs are used fresh. Some think if an herb is dried it is a spice. Botanically, an herb is any green plant that does not have a woody perennial stem or trunk. Think of herbs as leaves, fresh or dried. Cilantro (leaves) is an herb; coriander (seeds) is a spice -- both from the same plant.

Looking for pungency and robustness in the flavors you’re cooking with and eating? Then turn from the more delicate and subtle herbs to the spices that offer the gusto and intensity you might be seeking. But, unlike the herbs, don’t expect to grow your own, unless you are in a hot tropical climate.

Their fervor is frequently associated with their places of origin. Debates arise from time to time arguing the merits of one paprika over another, the best source of bay leaves, cinnamon, red peppers, nutmeg, vanilla bean and so on. Culinary experts also advise against buying large quantities since only small amounts are used each time and storage beyond one year is not advised, especially if it is ground or powdered. They will lose strength after that. Better, they say, to buy a small amount from the best source, and then replenish it as needed. They should be stored in airtight non-absorbent containers in as cool and dark a place as possible nearest the kitchen.

A spice known as allspice comes from an evergreen tree of the myrtle family. This spice is most commonly used for making pickles and baked goods, and for preserving meat products. It is native to and comes almost exclusively from the West Indies and Central America. Spices have little food value because they are eaten in such limited quantity. But they do increase the appetite, aid in digestion, and add new dimension to creativity by way of aroma and flavor. In gustatory, culinary, and gastronomical circles, spices and herbs take center stage. It’s all about how assertive you want the enhancement of your food to be. It can be off-putting if overdone, and a marvel if done just right.

If you enjoy cooking, I ask a simple question. When you first started out, unless you were at the knees of a gourmet chef or third generation herbalist, was your first experience with a curry dish equal to a much later one? There is curry powder and then there is curry powder. I see the pretenders in the markets for as little as 99 cents. Shutter the thought of using it, if you’ve ever had the pleasure of purchasing excellent, blended-by-hand curry. The real deal is so worth the difference. Memory is true testament.

The gentle flavor of chamomile is quiet enough to induce relaxation and sleep. Contrast this with the assertive blast from horseradish or cayenne. And then there is the refreshing lift of mint, or the sweet seduction of rosewater. Sentimental being that I am, I know none of this is by accident.

"There is no such thing as bad weather, only different kinds of good weather."
John Ruskin

From The Garden of Ed. Submitted for publication in The Towne Crier on January 16, 2008

Page Up