There
are truths and half-truths, old wives tales, superstitions,
proverbs, folk tales, and even aphorisms. There are many handed down
notions about gardening and related ideas. Many are valid and many are
nonsense, and probably a few are in between.
The
following quiz is to
shed some light on some of these. Play along; see how well you do. No
wooly bear stripes, I promise.
- In
starting a compost pile for the first time, using
commercial additives and supplements will increase the speed of the
composting process.
False.
Not
any more than a shovel of your regular compost or garden
soil. Composting activators or starters claiming to contain special
enzymes and microorganisms were tested in a variety of trials. No
significant differences were found. Aeration, maintaining the proper
moisture, and supplying sufficient carbon (from such sources as paper,
sawdust, leaves and wood chips) will keep the food waste compost heap
actively working just fine.
- When
pruning larger limbs and branches from trees, a
pruning paint, tar or varnish should be applied to the new wound.
False.
This notion is old fashioned and more recent research has
proven that tars, varnishes and paints seal in more problems than are
sealed out. Moisture sealed in can promote fungal decay, besides. Using
sterile tools and making clean, neat cuts will allow nature to do the
best healing.
- There
are certain grass varieties that will kill turf
insect pests.
True.
There are varieties that have fungal “endophytes” bred into
them. From endo (within) and phyte (plant), these special fescues and
perennial rye grasses produce a toxin that both discourages and kills
surface lawn pests such as chinch bugs and sod webworm. If you have a
buggy lawn area in shade, put down extra seed of any of these insect
resistant fescues: Jamestown II, SR 3000, Arid, Mesa, Titan, or
Tribute. These can be used in sunny areas, too, or use any of these
perennial ryes, also insect resistant: Repell, All-Star, Citation II,
and Pennant. There are other varieties, also.
- Now
through mid-April is the best time to prune fruit trees
and shrubs.
True,
but
with exceptions. Wait for a nice mild day. Prune now or
soon, apple, pear, grape and raspberry. Also, deciduous trees that
bloom on new wood. Wait to prune stone fruits such as peaches,
cherries, plums and nectarines until they are flowering.
- If
a
plant is wilting and looks stressed, it probably needs
to be fertilized.
False.
Here, a careful assessment of the source of stress is really
important. The stress signs might be a result of underwatering or
overwatering, excessive heat or cold, insect infestation, recent
transplanting (shock), or some unnoticed damage. All of these are
possible causes of stress. Feeding a plant when it is stressed is
making a demand on it to grow and produce new foliage when it’s most
serious task should be healing and recovering vigor.
- Overhead
watering of garden plants can cause the small
droplets left behind to act as magnifying glasses that will burn the
leaves leaving behind small spots.
False.
The
water droplets will not act like magnifying glasses. When
you and the gang go to the pool or beach, do you dry off before you lay
in the sun to relax and luxuriate in its warmth? Ever suffer any
microscopic burns? Of course not. The real problem with overhead
watering your vegetable garden is that the longer the leaves stay wet,
the more prone they are to being susceptible to developing fungal
infections, sometimes seen as leaf spots. The real lesson here is to
water the soil and not the plants.
- Dragonflies
are an important predator of mosquitoes in the
landscape.
False.
Dragonflies do eat mosquitoes. Dragonflies are heat driven
insects, active during the sunny warmth of the day. Mosquitoes are
mostly active at night. Dragonflies’ impact on the mosquito population
is small. The best predator is the bat. Both are active in the evening,
and bats consume vast numbers of mosquitoes.
- Established
trees should be watered and fertilized
regularly.
False.
Established trees should only be watered when there is a
drought, that is when there is insufficient rainfall to support and
sustain the tree. Over the space of two weeks, if there is no rainfall,
I would suggest you irrigate the tree so it receives the equivalent of
two inches of rainfall. On the question of fertilizer, it is almost
never recommended to feed an established tree. “Established” means that
it is capable of fulfilling its role of manufacturing all the food it
needs to maintain its vigor and produce healthy new limbs and branches.
The miracle is photosynthesis!
- Most
snakes seen in and around the garden are beneficial
and not harmful.
True.
Snakes are the gardeners’ allies. They are avid predators of
field mice, moles and voles. They are also insect eaters that might
save some plants from severe damage. They are in no way harmful to
gardeners or their plants. Only three venomous snakes are found in New
York State, and these are very uncommon. One, the copperhead is absent
from the Catskills. The massasauga is confined to two large wetlands,
one northeast of Syracuse and the other west of Rochester. The timber
rattlesnake has a specific habitat requirement consisting of rock
outcroppings for denning up to six months for hibernation; they are
seldom encountered and are not looking for anything but their usual
forage food of small rodents and an occasional squirrel. They avoid
people and civilization.
- The
presence of ants on flowers is nature’s way of helping
them open.
False.
This probably came about by people observing the common
phenomenon of people observing peony buds frequently attracting ants.
It was once believed that the ants were required to assist the buds to
open. We now know better. Ants are frequently found on flowers and the
accompanying foliage because some common insects like aphids leave
behind as their residue a substance known as honeydew that is very high
in sugars. The ants are drawn to it as a food source. The presence of
ants often indicates an insect infestation. Most plant feeding insects
produce honeydew as a waste product.
- The
best
time to do major work and renovation of your lawn
is in the spring.
False.
The
best time is in the fall (after mid-August) for a number
of reasons: The risks of failure are reduced; crab grass and other weed
seeds are not germinating; there is more good growing weather;
temperatures are cooling making less demand on the lawn grasses to
produce above ground growth, while soil remains warm for good root
establishment; rainfall is generally more uniform; diseases are less
likely to get a foothold and impair growth.
- The
best
time to repot houseplants is in the fall when you
bring them indoors.
False.
The
fall is the worst time because we are entering a period
of shorter day length and reduced available light. This would send
a conflicting message to a plant that has been placed in
fresh soil and expected to produce new growth. The best time is late
winter or early spring as the days lengthen and more light is
available. Right about from now on, mid-March, would be fine, but
there’s no hurry.